Symolem

Climate · Scope 3

98.9%

Nike's Scope 3 emissions as a share of its total footprint, FY21.

Your carbon footprint is made by other people.

For a fashion brand, almost every tonne you report is produced by a company you do not own, in a facility you may not be able to name.

Nike

  • Scope 3: 98.9% of total
  • Purchased goods and services: 88.5% of Scope 3

FY21

Decathlon

  • Scope 3: 99% of total
  • Raw materials and manufacturing alone: 73% of total

FY21

Fast Retailing

  • Scope 3: 97% of total
  • Purchased goods: 86% of total

FY20

Lenzing

  • Scope 3: 53% of total
  • Scope 1: 31%
  • Scope 2: 15%

FY21

Lenzing is the outlier because it is a fibre producer. Its emissions are largely its own. A brand's purchased goods emissions are its suppliers' Scope 1 and 2, the same tonnes, counted from the other end of the chain.

Source: UNFCCC / Sustainable Apparel Coalition, Guidance for Measuring GHG Emissions for Purchased Goods and Services for the Apparel and Footwear Industry, September 2023.

Almost none of it is yours to make.

Scope 3 dominance is structural, not a reporting quirk. The decisions that drive the number, fibre selection, dyeing and finishing, tier two processing, freight mode, are made by other companies, often years before your reporting deadline.

So the accounting question is not only how much. It is who holds what.

The gap is widening, not closing.

0.889 Gt0.944 Gt1.194 GtBusiness as usual0.489 Gt1.5°C aligned201920232030© Symolem

Apparel sector greenhouse gas emissions, gigatonnes CO2e. Source: Apparel Impact Institute, Taking Stock of Progress Against the Roadmap to Net Zero 2025. The 2030 business-as-usual figure reflects the revised forecast of 1.194 Gt.

Data table for the apparel sector emissions trajectory chart. Values are in gigatonnes of CO2 equivalent.
YearScenarioEmissions (Gt CO₂e)Description
2019Baseline0.889Actual
2023Most recent actual0.944Actual
2030Business as usual1.194Projected
20301.5°C aligned0.489Target (45% reduction on 2019)

The emissions are not at Tier 1.

Ninety-two percent of the sector's emissions sit above the tier most brands can actually name.

Tier 2 · Wet processing55% · 516.5 MtTier 4 · Raw fibre22% · 208.7 MtTier 3 · Spinning15% · 138.9 MtTier 1 · Cut and sew8% · 80.2 Mt

Apparel sector emissions by tier, 2023. Source: Apparel Impact Institute, Taking Stock of Progress Against the Roadmap to Net Zero 2025 (calendar year 2023). Aii describe this as a reasonable but not definitive estimate given the state of impact data in the sector.

Visibility runs the opposite way to emissions.

H&M

Nearly 1,200 Tier 1 factories. Nearly 400 Tier 2 mills.

adidas

Over 440 Tier 1 factories and subcontractors. 180 wet processing facilities.

Fast Retailing

Nearly 600 Tier 1 factories. Over 90 fabric mills.

Over 16,000 cotton farms in the United States alone.

A brand's knowledge of specific suppliers, and therefore its visibility into real impact data, declines as you move upstream. Most brands know their finished goods factories. Fewer know their mills, spinners and farms.

Source: UNFCCC / Sustainable Apparel Coalition, Guidance for Measuring GHG Emissions for Purchased Goods and Services for the Apparel and Footwear Industry, September 2023. Supplier counts compiled August 2022.

How emissions are calculated at each tier, and what that means for a brand's reported number.
TierWhat happensWhat that means for your number
Tier 1Cut and sewYour most accurate figure covers your smallest impact.
Tier 2Dyeing, finishing, fabric formationYour largest impact, often estimated.
Tier 3Spinning fibre into yarnEstimated.
Tier 4Fibre and farmingEstimated.

Most companies, if not all, use average data for portions of their purchased goods inventory, particularly tiers 2 to 4. It is a reasonable estimate. It is not those companies' actual data. Source: UNFCCC / Sustainable Apparel Coalition, Guidance for Measuring GHG Emissions for Purchased Goods and Services for the Apparel and Footwear Industry, September 2023.

"Data collected from a supplier may actually be less accurate than industry-average data for a particular product."

GHG Protocol, Technical Guidance for Calculating Scope 3 Emissions, quoted in the UNFCCC apparel guidance

Specificity and accuracy are not the same thing. Allocation introduces its own uncertainty, and a supplier figure that has been divided across every customer of a facility can be less reliable than a well-chosen average. Knowing which is which is the work.

Your best evidence is attached to your smallest number.

Share of sector emissionsTier 2 · 55%Tier 4 · 22%Tier 3 · 15%Tier 1 · 8%Industry averageFacility-adjustedSupplier-specific© Symolem
Data table for the tier-method matrix chart. Share of apparel sector emissions by tier and the calculation approach usually available.
TierShare of sector emissionsCalculation approachDescription
Tier 18%Supplier-specificFinished product / retail tier
Tier 255%Facility-adjustedComponent and material assembly
Tier 315%Industry averageRaw material processing
Tier 422%Industry averageRaw material extraction
X-axis description for the tier-method matrix chart. The three calculation bands shown left to right.
Calculation approachWhat it means
Industry averageGeneric emission factors with no supplier data
Facility-adjustedEmission factors adjusted by known facility attributes
Supplier-specificPrimary data from named suppliers and products

Share of apparel sector emissions by tier: Apparel Impact Institute, Taking Stock of Progress Against the Roadmap to Net Zero 2025 (calendar year 2023). Calculation approach typically used at each tier: UNFCCC / Sustainable Apparel Coalition, Guidance for Measuring GHG Emissions for Purchased Goods and Services for the Apparel and Footwear Industry, September 2023.

What you get

Tier map

Which facilities, at which tier, for which product ranges.

Nominated versus open sourcing exposure

Where you have leverage and where you have none.

Emissions concentration by tier

Where the footprint actually sits.

Primary versus secondary data by tier

Confidence rated, not assumed.

Calculation approach disclosure

The method used at each tier, stated. Recommended by the UNFCCC guidance and almost never done.

Priority intervention list

Ranked by emissions multiplied by leverage, not by emissions alone.

Questions we are asked

Find out where your footprint is actually made.